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International Incident Party ~ Prawn Tacos and Shredded Beef Tacos

Welcome to another International Incident Party!  This time we head to Mexico and celebrate with with what is usually most people’s introduction to Mexican food – the taco.

But what exactly is a taco?  When a tortilla is filled and folded in two, it is a called a taco.  The corn tortilla has been around since before the conquest of Mexico. It formed an important part of the daily diet of both kings and workers in pre-hispanic Mexico.  Today wheat tortillas are nearly as common as corn ones and the taco is a well known and loved street food.

To many people, a taco is a corn tortilla bent in half to form a deep U shape, then fried crisp and stuffed to overflowing with minced beef, shredded iceberg lettuce, sliced tomato, and grated cheese.   You’ve seen them in Tex-Mex fast food franchises like Taco Bell and in the pre-packaged kits in the supermarket.  Throughout Mexico, however the simple taco consumed by millions of people daily is a fresh, hot, often soft tortilla rolled or folded around some slow cooked shredded meat or mashed beans or seafood and liberally doused with any one of the endless variety of sauces for which Mexico is justly famed, but which are sadly misrepresented in favour of the Tex-Mex variety.  Tacos are usually eaten as a snack between meals, in the evening with a bowl of soup for supper, or as an entrée before the main meal of the day.  I have steered away from the Tex-Mex style and gone for two fillings that have a Baja California influence.

Prawn tacos with jicama slaw


Tacos

32  green medium king prawns, peeled and cleaned
1 tsp  each ground cumin, ground allspice and chilli powder
2 tbsp  vegetable oil
1  small red onion, finely chopped
2  cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2  vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
1  lime, juiced
¼ cup  coarsely chopped coriander
To serve: tortillas (I used wheat but corn would be fine), avocado sliced into wedges, limes and sour cream

Jicama slaw

1 (285gm)  jicama, peeled and cut into julienne
1  baby cos, finely shredded
1  fresh green serrano or other long green chilli, seeded and thinly sliced
1/3 cup  finely chopped coriander
1  lime, juiced
¼ cup  vegetable oil
¼ tsp  chilli powder

Place prawns, cumin, allspice, ½ tsp chilli powder and 2 tbsp oil in a glass bowl, season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate for 10 minutes.

For jicama slaw, place jicama, cos, green chilli and coriander in a bowl, season to taste and stir to combine. Add dressing to jicama mixture and toss gently.

Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan, add onion, garlic, tomatoes, lime juice and remaining chilli powder and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes or until soft, then season to taste.

Barbecue or char-grill prawns for 4-5 minutes or until cooked through, then transfer to tomato mixture, add coriander and stir to combine. Barbecue or char-grill tortillas, for 30 seconds on each side or until just warm and lightly golden, then transfer to a plate and cover with a tea towel to keep warm.

Serve warm tortillas, prawn and tomato mixture, jicama slaw, avocado, lime halves and sour cream separately for everyone to assemble their own tacos.

Shredded Beef Tacos


800 gm  beef brisket or chuck, cut into 5cm pieces
1  onion, thinly sliced
3  cloves of garlic
¼ cup  lard or vegetable oil
480 gm (about 3)  vine-ripened tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
2  green onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp  chilli powder
1  long green chilli, thinly sliced

Place beef in a large saucepan, add enought water to cover, add 1 tsp sea salt and bring to the boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes, skimming scum from surface. Add half the onion and half a clove of garlic to pan, partially cover and simmer for 3 hours or until meat is tender. Remove meat from broth, reserving broth, and finely shred using two forks.

Finely chop remaining garlic and set aside. Heat lard over medium heat in a large heavy-based frying pan, add beef and remaining onion and sauté for 5 minutes or until onion is soft and beef browns slightly. Add garlic, tomato, green onion, chilli powder and green chilli and cook for 2 minutes or until tomato softens. Add 180ml of reserved broth and cook for 10-15 minutes or until liquid is reduced by half. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve spooned into warm tortillas.

Wheat Tortillas

Makes 20
3 cups bread flour
120 gm  lard

Place flour in a large bowl, add lard and, using fingertips, rub until combined, then make a well in the centre.  Combine 1 tsp sea salt with 1 cup water, pour into well and mix until combined.  Knead on a lightly floured surface until smooth and elastic, cover with plastic wrap and stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.  Heat a hotplate or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Roll tablespoons of dough into 1mm-2mm-thick, 15cm-diameter circles and cook, in batches, for 1-2 minutes each side or until just coloured.  Cover with a tea towel to keep warm.

Don’t forget to check out what the rest of the crew has made:

Happy Bastille Day ~ Vive le France!

Bastille Day is a national holiday in France and celebrates the storming of the Paris bastille in 1789 an event that changed France forever.  Although it had little practical use, it represented a popular uprising against what was viewed as an oppressive institution. A major catalyst in the French Revolution it saw the birth of the republic and the end of the monarchy.  In France no-one works, elsewhere Francophiles around the world have celebrations of their own in homage to french history and culture.

This Francophile thought it would be nice to share with you my top ten favourite French epicurean delights, in no particular order:

The Billecart Salmon Rosé Champagne

There are few pleasures in life better than rosé champagne, and this is my unequivocal favourite.  A delicate salmon-pink in colour it has an intense flowery bouquet and vibrant fruit flavours from strawberry through to citrus.  It has a wonderful palate from a lush creamy start through the fine bubbles to a lingering finish that has slight minerality and is dry but not overly.  If you want to make me happy, give me a bottle of this.  Or maybe two.

The Soufflé

A dish that scares even the best of cooks, the perfect soufflé is something to get excited about.  I like both the savoury and sweet versions, but don’t bother giving me a twice cooked one.  To me, it’s not the real deal.  The best sweet soufflé I have had the pleasure of eating was a raspberry one at Vue de Monde.  The best savoury version, I am pleased to say is one I made myself:  a gruyere soufflé with a Riesling sauce.

The Cheese

It would have been ridiculously easy for me to make this top ten list ALL cheese, so long is the list of ones that I can’t help but want more of:  Roquefort, Munster, Raclette, Neufchatel….  I’m the kind of girl who instead of checking the dessert menu before she orders dinner, finds out what’s on the cheese plate.

The Baguettes

The crust should be golden, even and crunchy. The interior or mie as the French call it, should be airy, even holey. The mie should not stick to your fingers or to your mouth. The good (or bad, depending on how you look at it) thing is baguettes do not store, they are made to be bought and eaten that day.

The amuse bouche

An amuse-bouche is a single, bite-sized hors d’œuvre.   It means to “amuse the mouth”. Regular readers may be aware that I am more than a little partial to bite size morsels of nom that amuse my mouth.  Amuse-bouche are different from appetisers in that they are not ordered from a menu by patrons, but, when served, are done so according to the chef’s selection alone.

The Boeuf bourguignon

One of the first French dishes I mastered and didn’t I feel clever when I did! The version I first cooked was out of the Women’s Weekly Basic Cookbook which my Mum bought for me when I first moved out of home.  These days when I make “beef burgundy” it is from my head which is no doubt an amalgam of the many recipes I have read since, with my own touches added in for good measure.

The Aperitif

The Aperitif is a before-dinner drink to stimulate the appetite.  I cannot claim that my appetite has truly ever needed stimulating, but since most aperitifs were originally produced for medicinal purposes surely this is justification enough?  Pastis is an anise flavoured aperitif.  It gained popularity after the whole absinthe wormwood debacle and ban.  Serve it to me in summer, over ice and diluted with water and I will play pétanque and say Santé!

The Duck confit

To make confit de canard the duck is cured for 24 hours with salt and seasonings such as garlic, thyme, and nutmeg before having the salt washed off and being cooked very slowly covered in a lot, I mean a LOT of duck fat.  When it comes out of the fat it may not look too appetising but you are but minutes away from something truly delicious.  All you need do is  crisp the skin under a hot grill.  Or you could add it to the next on my list

The Cassoulet

From the Languedoc region of France, this is a traditional slow cooked stew of haricot beans, and a variety of meats including Toulouse sausages, confit duck legs and pork with a gratin topping.  It is a winter must.  If you cannot find the time or energy to make it, go somewhere that does.

The Gougère

Heavenly little cheese puffs of pâté a choux.  It’s my cheese fetish rearing it’s head again!  Choux pastry is perhaps more commonly associated with éclairs:  stuffed with cream and drizzled with chocolate but I prefer it this way with loads of gruyere folded in.

Apologies to Bouillabaise, French Onion Soup, Perigord truffles, Croissants and Steak et frites – you all deserved to be on the list too!  I have enjoyed you all many a time.

A question for you to ponder that my dear friend L brought up whilst we were shopping today.  If we can no longer call Australian bubbly “Champagne”  why is it we can still buy “Champagne Ham” from almost every supermarket and deli in town?

EARL Canteen ~ a crazy sandwich adventure

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I thought I was going to be the last food blogger in Melbourne to make it into EARL Canteen.  Sadly unable to attend the launch and since their opening in early May I had been tortured on an almost daily basis with tweets and blog posts and reviews all extolling the wonders of this clever little canteen that found a niche and filled a need we didn’t know we had.  Thankfully they did.

“They” is Jackie Middleton and Simon O’Regan.  You’ll see them when you walk in, smiling in welcome.  Like the rest of their staff.  The perfect professional level of friendly and approachable.  This is a part of their brand that they built up before the doors had even opened.  You see EARL Canteen cleverly uses social media, Twitter in particular, to gain exposure and loyalty.  It is never overwhelming or spam like.  In the lead up it was genuine and relevant – sneak peaks of how the fit out was going, tid bits of insight into the menu planning and recipe testing.  They had the Twitterverse waiting in eager anticipation for the doors to open.

Since then they have stuck with this approach to marketing and, I think, to great effect. Using it to promote endorsements from customers – from retweets of those who had just been in for lunch to links (with thanks) to blog posts and mainstream media reviews.  Pretty soon some menu items began to acquire an almost cult status as the online word spread:

RT @bookshopaddict: @EARLCanteen I think the boudin blanc baguette is the cool indie band answer to the stadium rock of the pork sandwich

It helps in no little way that they have, in equal measures, a great philosophy and great passion.  They care about where the food comes from and how they serve it to you.  The same level of care is given to the balance and creativity in the menu.  I related immediately to their story of being hungry waiters who saw chefs create quick snacks from restaurant meals wedged between some bread.  I did that too in my long ago waitressing days.

I had several failed attempts at getting to EARL.  None of them made any easier for me given I do not work in the CBD and couldn’t just pop in.  The first time I wanted to go I got sick.  The second time I had planned to make the trip in I had to stay home and wait for a tradesman who waited until the very end of the day to show up.  The third time I was meant to have a little lunch with the girls and it got cancelled.  It seemed crazy that it was such an ordeal.  But I did get there, and I have been back.

My first visit was at the height of the Pork Belly sandwich craze, so it was impossible to order anything else.  It was selling out daily and there wasn’t a blog or tweet or review I read that didn’t pay homage.  I had to know what everyone was raving about and why That Jess Ho had renamed it the “Sex Sandwich”.  As it turned out they were all right.  It is amazing.  From the perfect salty crunch of the crackling to the chunks of succulent meat each mouthful of the Otway pork that took all night to cook is a decadent delight.  It is served in a Dench baguette with apple, cabbage and fennel coleslaw and wilted silverbeet and is $13.50.

Pork Belly Sandwich

My lunch companion couldn’t pass it up either which was disappointing as it meant I didn’t get to try another sandwich, but I could hardly blame her.  We did have some of the seasonal salads $9.50 for a large plate or $6.50 for the small.  The cabbage pomegranate and parmesan one was simple but sublime.

Seasonal Salads

On my next visit I had the Sticky Lamb $16. Tender braised lamb with peas and a cauliflower cheese crumble.  I was not disappointed.  I am rather fond of cauliflower in any form and thought having it in a crusty baguette a damn fine idea.

Sticky Lamb

My lunch companion on this occasion couldn’t resist the lure of the pork belly, so my hopes of trying another sandwich, the newly added (boudin blanc) Sausage and the Egg $14 for example, were again thwarted.  So I decided on a different plan of attack.  If I cannot try more now, who’s to stop me eating it later.  The new wagyu and ratatouille sausage roll $8.50 and a salted caramel macaron – for “later” were popped into bags and off I went.  The sausage roll (which you can also get with soup for $12) made it to “later” but the macaron, consumed very soon after departure, alas did not!

Wagyu and ratatouille sausage roll

Salted caramel macaron

What to expect at EARL?  Expect sandwiches with fillings that are local, seasonal, sustainable and ethically raised.  Expect to wait (only a little!) while they make it to order.  Expect a modern minimalist interior (with blogger friendly lighting!).  Expect good coffee.  And most of all; like their journey from idea to opening, and my ordeal in getting there, expect (in their words) a crazy sandwich adventure.

Earl Canteen
500 Bourke, Lt Bourke St courtyard
(03) 9600 1995
Hours: Mon-Fri 7.30am–5pm