Twice a year, or as close to that as we can manage, my brother and I have what I truly believe is the ultimate dinner party. The idea was born many years ago when, as part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, I went to a Riedel Master Class. Already a keen wine drinker and appreciator, I was transported to another level by this guided tasting which revealed the true impact the correct stemware can have on enjoying your favourite tipple. Bursting with enthusiasm from my newfound knowledge (and newly acquired Riedel glasses) I had a dinner party where I tried to deliver the same experience. Carefully chosen and created recipes were paired with the best of the wine varietals that the Riedels represented. It was a resounding success. Not long after, when said brother married his sweetheart, the choice of wedding gift from the third sibling and me was easy – a set of Riedel glasses. And so the tradition began.
Invitations to the now infamous Riedel nights are hard fought and rarely bestowed. This is how they work; my brother, sister-in-law and I decide who is to be invited. A date is set. About a fortnight prior to the event we go out for breakfast laden with an armoury of cookbooks, magazines and ideas. After much debate and several strong coffees, each course is allocated. Each attendee must provide the wine and accompanying dish for their nominated course. Typically the courses are: Champagne, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a dessert wine. Cellars are scoured and cookbooks combed. The hardest part is to decide what comes first – the wine or the food. This is usually dependant upon what is in the cellar crying out to be opened, or what amazing recipes have been discovered and need to be recreated.
The first time we attempted all courses, it was an exhibition of endurance and extravagance. We got the food and wine right. What we had failed to take into consideration was portion size. The age of degustation and the tasting menu had not yet come into full flight so we shall claim ignorance. Instead of coming to the logical conclusion that, if you are consuming 4-5 more courses than normal (if three courses is indeed normal), the courses need to be just a wee bit smaller than conventional servings we revelled in our generosity as gluttonous gourmands and the plates were heavily laden. The result? A merrily tipsy mob, still devouring the delectable dinner at 2am. Not bad for a 6.30pm start!
Slowly we are learning. And getting more particular and adventurous as we go. Our recent attempts suggest we almost have it.
One attempt of note was a French themed dinner. All wine, and food, and music for the evening hailed from France. French cuisine has to be considered one of the most refined and elegant styles of cooking, and is equally renowned for its wines. We had raised the bar this time. Escoffier or Bocuse we are not, but we certainly produced a divine repast. Oysters and vintage Veuve to start, Gruyere Soufflé with an Alsatian Riesling Sauce, Whiting with fennel remoulade, a typically French, minerally Chablis with tarragon chicken and ratatouille, duck and wild mushroom tarte tatin paired with a smooth Bordeaux, steak au poivre (flambéed for maximum effect and served with a nicely complex assemblage from the Rhone. And, of course, profiteroles. Oozing with crème patissiere and smothered in luscious chocolate.
Whiting with fennel remoulade
Even more challenging was the most recent dinner, which was driven by Asian flavours. Makes for a more challenging time when it comes to the food and wine pairing, but I was determined to try a recipe that I had come across in Matt Moran’s (of Aria in Sydney) cookbook, and everything sort of grew from there. The dish was a Peking Duck Consommé with duck wontons. It took nearly a day to make, but was worth every moment. It is not surprising that it is one of the signature dishes on the menu at Aria.
Peking duck consomme
Some of the other courses that night included sea scallops on pork skin with caviar, tuna sashimi with dipping sauce and wakame salad, a rich and sticky melt in your mouth braised ox tail and a crispy salt and pepper calamari.
We criss-crossed our way through Asia with these dishes and loved every mouthful of the journey. There has been a brief hiatus from our Riedel nights – to let my brother and sister-in-law look after the latest foodie to join the family, my gorgeous niece Beth. When she is much older I am sure she would love to join us, but for now she just needs to be a little bit older so that her mum can again partake in the decadence.
We’re thinking Spanish for the next one.
Jo x
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[...] is 527 Church St Richmond, was back in 2002. The newly opened Dutton Enoteca was the venue for a Riedel Masterclass as part of that year’s Melbourne Food and Wine Festival. The class itself expanded my interest [...]