Subscription Options:

Subscribe via RSS Subscribe via Email

Latest tweets

EARL Canteen ~ a crazy sandwich adventure

__________

I thought I was going to be the last food blogger in Melbourne to make it into EARL Canteen.  Sadly unable to attend the launch and since their opening in early May I had been tortured on an almost daily basis with tweets and blog posts and reviews all extolling the wonders of this clever little canteen that found a niche and filled a need we didn’t know we had.  Thankfully they did.

“They” is Jackie Middleton and Simon O’Regan.  You’ll see them when you walk in, smiling in welcome.  Like the rest of their staff.  The perfect professional level of friendly and approachable.  This is a part of their brand that they built up before the doors had even opened.  You see EARL Canteen cleverly uses social media, Twitter in particular, to gain exposure and loyalty.  It is never overwhelming or spam like.  In the lead up it was genuine and relevant – sneak peaks of how the fit out was going, tid bits of insight into the menu planning and recipe testing.  They had the Twitterverse waiting in eager anticipation for the doors to open.

Since then they have stuck with this approach to marketing and, I think, to great effect. Using it to promote endorsements from customers – from retweets of those who had just been in for lunch to links (with thanks) to blog posts and mainstream media reviews.  Pretty soon some menu items began to acquire an almost cult status as the online word spread:

RT @bookshopaddict: @EARLCanteen I think the boudin blanc baguette is the cool indie band answer to the stadium rock of the pork sandwich

It helps in no little way that they have, in equal measures, a great philosophy and great passion.  They care about where the food comes from and how they serve it to you.  The same level of care is given to the balance and creativity in the menu.  I related immediately to their story of being hungry waiters who saw chefs create quick snacks from restaurant meals wedged between some bread.  I did that too in my long ago waitressing days.

I had several failed attempts at getting to EARL.  None of them made any easier for me given I do not work in the CBD and couldn’t just pop in.  The first time I wanted to go I got sick.  The second time I had planned to make the trip in I had to stay home and wait for a tradesman who waited until the very end of the day to show up.  The third time I was meant to have a little lunch with the girls and it got cancelled.  It seemed crazy that it was such an ordeal.  But I did get there, and I have been back.

My first visit was at the height of the Pork Belly sandwich craze, so it was impossible to order anything else.  It was selling out daily and there wasn’t a blog or tweet or review I read that didn’t pay homage.  I had to know what everyone was raving about and why That Jess Ho had renamed it the “Sex Sandwich”.  As it turned out they were all right.  It is amazing.  From the perfect salty crunch of the crackling to the chunks of succulent meat each mouthful of the Otway pork that took all night to cook is a decadent delight.  It is served in a Dench baguette with apple, cabbage and fennel coleslaw and wilted silverbeet and is $13.50.

Pork Belly Sandwich

My lunch companion couldn’t pass it up either which was disappointing as it meant I didn’t get to try another sandwich, but I could hardly blame her.  We did have some of the seasonal salads $9.50 for a large plate or $6.50 for the small.  The cabbage pomegranate and parmesan one was simple but sublime.

Seasonal Salads

On my next visit I had the Sticky Lamb $16. Tender braised lamb with peas and a cauliflower cheese crumble.  I was not disappointed.  I am rather fond of cauliflower in any form and thought having it in a crusty baguette a damn fine idea.

Sticky Lamb

My lunch companion on this occasion couldn’t resist the lure of the pork belly, so my hopes of trying another sandwich, the newly added (boudin blanc) Sausage and the Egg $14 for example, were again thwarted.  So I decided on a different plan of attack.  If I cannot try more now, who’s to stop me eating it later.  The new wagyu and ratatouille sausage roll $8.50 and a salted caramel macaron – for “later” were popped into bags and off I went.  The sausage roll (which you can also get with soup for $12) made it to “later” but the macaron, consumed very soon after departure, alas did not!

Wagyu and ratatouille sausage roll

Salted caramel macaron

What to expect at EARL?  Expect sandwiches with fillings that are local, seasonal, sustainable and ethically raised.  Expect to wait (only a little!) while they make it to order.  Expect a modern minimalist interior (with blogger friendly lighting!).  Expect good coffee.  And most of all; like their journey from idea to opening, and my ordeal in getting there, expect (in their words) a crazy sandwich adventure.

Earl Canteen
500 Bourke, Lt Bourke St courtyard
(03) 9600 1995
Hours: Mon-Fri 7.30am–5pm

It's the big one!

Viva Espana!  They are still dancing on the streets in Madrid, celebrating the nation’s first ever World Cup victory.  Can they make it a double and win here too?  That is up to you.

The Culinary World Cup of Food Final will be contested between Spain and Japan!

To help you decide I have ditched the beers and gone instead with the more obvious drinking matches: if you choose Spain you will now be voting for Paella and Sangria and for Japan it is Sushi and Sake.  Before we get to the voting, I thought we should learn a little bit more about these famous dishes.

Paella and Sangria

________

The original paella was considered a poor man’s fare, and was usually made with a little bit of whatever was on hand. Today, it has become one of Spain’s most popular and best-loved dishes.  Paella takes its name from “paella” – the Valencian word for pan, and the meal takes its name from the dish in which it is cooked.    “La Paella” is a circular and shallow pan with two round handles and a flat base traditionally made of iron.

During the centuries following the introduction of rice to Spain by the Moors, the peasants of Valencia would use the paella pan to cook rice with readily available ingredients from the countryside: tomatoes, onions and snails.   On special occasions the dish may include rabbit or duck, and the more well off Valencians might add chicken.   Little by little this “Valencian rice” became more widely known.  By the end of the nineteenth century “paella valenciana” had established itself and was well known throughout Spain.   Seafood was not originally used in paella dishes, as it was difficult to get hold of in the fields of Valencia, and snails were the cheapest meat option available at the time.  It was not until other regions began to add their own twists to the dish that fish, seafood and pork were added.

Paella is really a Sunday dish eaten when the whole family is together.  It is best cooked outside over an open wood fire and traditionally made by men.  Often cooked in large quantities, paella still tastes as good the day after cooking, and can be enjoyed cold on picnics or heated up when required. The cooking of the perfect paella can be quite a laborious task, and all Spanish households have an expert on the art of paella making, although opinions on the best ingredients to use often differ from region to region.  As a result cooking paella is quite a personal task and there are no hard and fast rules where ingredients are concerned.  The basic way to cook paella is to stirf fry the meat (if using) then the vegetables in olive oil.  Then add water, bring to the boil, and leave for half an hour or so.  After checking the flavour and seasoning if needed, the rice is added.  Calasparra (real paella) rice is never stir-fried in oil, as pilaf or risotto.  Once the rice is nearly done, the paella is removed from the heat and left to absorb the remaining water.    Traditional paella has a crispy, caramelized, toasted bottom (called socarrat in Valencian) that is considered a delicacy.   To achieve a socarrat, you only need to turn up the heat to high and listen to the bottom of the rice toast.   Once the aroma of toasted rice comes from the pan, the heat is removed once again.   The paella is ready to be served after having cooled for several minutes.  For a seafood paella, the fish needs to be cooked for a much shorter time than the meat, as it is easy to overcook white fish and squid.

There are several different varieties of paella available.  Most in addition to the main meat or fish ingredients add peppers, tomatoes, onions and green beans.

  • Paella Valenciana is the original paella made with chicken, pork and/or rabbit.
  • Paella Marisco is made with prawns, mussels, squid and often white fish.
  • Paella Mixta is made with fish and meat.
  • Paella Vegetal or Vegetariana is the most recently introduced version of this famous dish, and made only with vegetables.
  • Paella Negra is an interesting version, and contains seafood cooked in squid ink, which turns the rice black.
  • Paella Fideus is made with fine pasta instead of rice.

The perfect accompaniment for paella is a jug of cool, fruity sangria.  The real origins of this drink seem to be unknown, but it is undoubtedly one of Andalucia´s most popular refreshments – particularly in the summer months.   Every restaurant has its own sangria recipe, but the drink typically includes red wine, brandy and fruit, with plenty of ice in the jug – although this is open to experimentation and personal taste always comes into it.   Fruit juice or casera is often added to dilute the mix, and liqueurs such as 43 or cointreau also complement this popular drink.   A white wine version is also popular and known as sangria blanco, and a sparkling version can be made with cava.

Sushi and Sake

________

The basic concept of fish preparation in Japan is suggested by a proverb that essentially says:  It is felt that the taste and texture of fish is best appreciated when it is very fresh and eaten raw.   If the fish is a little less than fresh then its best taste will be produced by sprinkling it with salt and grilling it.   Finally, if the fish is not fresh, then it is better boiled with seasonings, such as soy sauce or soybean paste (miso).

Sushi originated in the 7th century as a means of preserving fish by fermenting it in boiled rice.   Fish that are salted and placed in rice are preserved by lactic acid fermentation, which prevents proliferation of the bacteria that bring about putrefaction.    A souring of flavor occurs during the process, and the fish is eaten only after the sticky decomposed rice has been cleaned off.   This older type of sushi is still produced in the areas surrounding Lake Biwa in western Japan, and similar types are also known in Korea, southwestern China, and Southeast Asia.

A unique fifteenth-century development shortened the fermentation period of sushi to one or two weeks and made both the fish and the rice edible.   As a result, sushi became a popular snack food, combining fish with the traditional staple food, rice.   Sushi without fermentaion appeared during the Edo period (1600-1867),  and sushi was finally united with sashimi at the end of the eighteenth century, when the hand-rolled type, nigiri-sushi, was devised.    Various styles of hand-rolled sushi were developed, such as norimaki, in which vinegar-flavored rice and seasoned boiled vegetables are rolled in paper-thin layers.   The establishment of sushi restaurants that offered seasonings and different toppings according to the taste of the guest changed the dish from its original character as a preserved food to the somewhat strange dichotomy of being both a fast food and a culinary art form.  The Itamae-San (expert sushi chef) has also seen change as demand for his/her craft has grown.   Years ago, one could not practice this art form without a minimum of 10 years of training and proven skill.  Now, due to the growing need, restaurants will hire Sushi chefs with just a few years of learning experience.  But Sushi is about culinary expertise and an Itamae-San continually strives to master his/her skill while performing for the delight of the patron and serving an array of bright colors, mouthwatering tastes and tingling sensations.

In Japanese, the word sake can mean any alcoholic beverage. But in English, people generally use it to mean a specific type of rice alcohol, also known as Nihonshu.  I will stick with calling it sake.  It is a special sort of drink that is neither wine nor beer and also not really a spirit.  In ancient Japan sake was used as a sacred alcohol at religious ceremonies by select nobles.  Later consumption spread to the general public and was consumed at special Shinto occasions such as new year, weddings, festivals and funerals.  Today sake is enjoyed by anyone and can be served warm, room temperature or chilled.   Sake is usually drunk from small cups called choko and poured into the choko from ceramic flasks called tokkuri.  Toji is the job title of the sake brewer. It is a highly respected job in Japanese society with toji being regarded a little like musicians or painters.  The title of toji was historically passed on from father to son; today new toji are either veteran brewery workers or are trained at universities.  There are two basic types of sake: futsu-shu “ordinary sake” which is the equivalent of table wine and tokutei meisho-shu “special designation sake” premium sakes distinguished by the degree to which the rice is polished and the added percentage of brewer’s alcohol or the absence of such additives.

Time now to vote!  Thanks to all who have followed my little competition, it’s been a bit of fun.

Culinary World Cup? It's Semi Finals time!

The excitement is steadily building.  Are we headed for the same winner here as in South Africa?  Will the love of raw fish triumph over a meaty savoury custard?  Who will emerge victorious in the slow cooked mediterannean head to head?

For these and answers to all the other mindless questions that have been invading your headspace this week stay tuned as Beer’n'Bites (thanks Injera!) plunges head first into the Semi Finals.  Don’t forget, you only have 24 hours to vote before the finalists are revealed.

Semi Final One – Japan vs South Africa

Can you picture yourself sipping on a Sapporo, that fine lager with a refreshing flavour and moderately light body whilst you select a piece of sushi – perfectly vinegared rice topped with just-out-of-the-sea-fresh seafood…

… or are you more likely to reach for seconds if you are given a full flavoured and thirst quenching Castle Lager and some pleasingly spiced, slightly sweet Bobotie?

_________________

Semi Final Tw0 – France vs Spain

Which sends you closer to food heaven?  Cassoulet’s depth of flavour from slow cooked beans, garlicky Toulouse sausages and rich tomato washed down with the crisp slightly bitter pilsner that is Kronenbourg…

… or perhaps you prefer the smooth taste of Mahou and like scraping the crust on the bottom of the paelleria, enjoying the slightly smoky grains of rice, swollen with stock and scented with saffron?  _

 

________________