Cumulus Inc ~ this way to cloud nine

Flinders Lane is one of my favourite precincts in the city of Melbourne.  I love walking along and discovering interesting and new places within the myriad of buildings,arcades and lanes.  I can’t get bored here!  Look in any direction and you will find art,sculpture,hidden bars,exquisite clothing and some very atmospheric eateries;such as Cumulus Inc,the all day “eating house and bar” from Andrew McConnell and team.

Located just down from Spring St it shares a turn of (last) century rag trade building with several galleries and,to my eye,occupies a brilliantly designed space.  It looks semi-industrial with its lofty ceiling and bare hardwood floor but has an understated sophistication about it.  Down the length of one side of the room,facing Flinders Lane is the bar.  Perch on a stool here to enjoy a pastry and excellent coffee from the constantly busy barista or sip on a wine from the extensive list whilst watching the world outside go by.  On the opposite wall you can set yourself up on along a long slab of white marble to watch the activity on the other side in the small bustling open kitchen,feasting as you go.  The chefs are literally within arms’ reach.  Scattered in between are the usual restaurant style tables and chairs.  The choice is yours for how you want to experience your visit to this wonderfully unpretentious and yet enticingly hip eatery.

I am rather taken by the name,and whilst I certainly cannot claim to know the inspiration,a few connections and ideas have come to mind.  According to Wikipedia, “Cumulus clouds may appear alone,in lines,or in clusters”.  I liken the clouds to the dishes on the made to be shared menu.  Come in and have one dish as a snack.  Have a another to follow,and another if you are whiling away some time,or come with a few friends and make a feast of a few at once. 

The menu starts with a selection of about a dozen presentations of “oysters”,then moves on to a number of things “to start” including some perfectly crispy school prawns sautéed with chilli and garlic ($14).  I have had this on two separate visits and was equally impressed each time.  The most recent time I was seated at the marble,with an absolutely birds’ eye view of proceedings.  The prawns came out of the fryer,were tossed in the garlic and chilli and salt and shallots and placed very politely in front of us by head chef Josh Murphy.  They were hot.  They soaked up the gentle squeeze of lemon that was the only accompaniment.  And they were good.

Deciding from the extensive list of “charcuterie” that follows is a tough ask.  Do you opt for the Wagyu bresaola ($17)?  Or,maybe,the handcut Sicilian salami ($14)?  For me it’s always hard to go past the Jamon Iberico de Belotta ($40).  I’ve tried all of them,including the Kitchen Charcuterie Selection ($23) when decision was beyond me,and found each to be everything that salty cured meats should me – both tender and more-ish,a mouth-filling pleasure.  Regretfully,no pictures of these wonderful morsels,they were eaten too quickly.

“Salads and comestibles” are the next installment on the menu.  On one visit I had a simple salad of prosciutto di parma with rocket,a couple of lightly charred slices of sourdough and burrata.  Burrata is a pulled cheese like mozzarella,known in Italian as pasta filata,and is made in a very unique way.  Once the cooked curd is divided into pieces,the cheesemaker immerses them in very hot water and they are then formed into a pouch.  The cream is poured inside and the pouch is closed by pinching the top together,making a pear shaped sack.  The result is a decadently creamy cheese that is still fresh and oozed rich buttery goodness onto the bread when we pierced the pouch.  The peppery rocket and saltiness of the prosciutto offset the richness nicely.

On another visit,I had the spiced cauliflower with goat’s curd ($14).  The cauliflower with its multiple curves and defined edges also reminds me of cumulus clouds.  This is not a puffy or fluffy dish however.  Small (blanched?) florets are cooked until they show signs of browning in a hot frypan,then are finished in the oven.  A generous smear of a light tangy goat’s curd that has a sumptuously creamy finish goes on the plate and is then topped with the cauliflower after it has been tossed with cayenne pepper,mint,and parsley.  Finish with pomegranate seeds and some rocket and you have a dish I did not want to share.

Following the salads are three “fish” options,including a Kinkawooka mussels with jamon,parsley and saffron bourride ($15) that must have been good – it was on one out of three tables during a busy lunch last time I was there.

For the carnivores amongst us in the “meat” section there is a whole slow roast lamb shoulder to share ($62) which looked and smelt rich and inviting,and Cumulus’ take on the cassoulet ($23) – white beans braised with salt pork belly,smoked Lyonnaise sausage and roast pork strap.  It hit the mark perfectly on the cold winter day that I tried it.  Do be sure to keep some of the dense crusty bread that you will be served at the start.  You will want it to get the last of the tasty braise that is delivered to the table in an individual miniature saucepan.

I am yet to have any room left to sample the “desserts”.  But I will be back to do so,even if it is simply one of the madeleines filled with lemon curd ($2.50).

Cumulus Inc is a favourite haunt for foodies,and it’s easy to understand why.  It captures where Melbourne seems to be at – good food that is shared and available anytime,good service that is professional and knowledgeable,but not intrusive,and an inviting dining space that feeds off the energy of the guests.

I will return,and often.  There are too many dishes I am yet to enjoy!